Topical skin care products are still the key to beautiful skin.
- Posted on: Apr 5 2012
By Dr. Richard Asarch, M.D.
“Since the dawn of civilization women (and sometimes men as well) have been rubbing products of some kind on their skin to heal, moisturize and otherwise improve their skin. In this era of injectables and advanced, futuristic, device-driven rejuvenation therapies, overall skin care still rests on the firm foundation of cosmeceuticals-those topical creams, lotions, oils and ointments whose predecessors have been in use for millennia.”
– An excerpt from the article Skin care still starts with Cosmeceuticals from the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery publication currents, Jan/Feb 2012
What is a Cosmeceutical? A combination of the words cosmetic and pharmaceutical, Cosmeceutical became a widely used term in the 1990s and continues to be popular.
The Cosmeceutical trend grew as skin care and science began to merge. Cosmetics enhance beauty and aesthetics, while drugs treat a specific issue. Cosmeceuticals are non-prescription, anti-aging products that are formulated to improve or enhance the skin’s appearance with biologically active ingredients. With cosmeceuticals, we are looking for improvement through regular use over time- not an immediate improvement. While drugs are used to treat ailing skin, Cosmeceuticals are used on healthy skin to improve and maintain skin health.
The first products in this category were basic moisturizers used to prevent skin dehydration whichaccentuates fine lines and wrinkles. The need for improved, scientifically engineered products soon followed.
“The scientific study of cosmeceuticals is necessary and they must be studied under the same rigorous standards under which topical drugs are investigated. The double blind, placebo controlled model is the basis for cosmeceutical research as well as for new topical drug research” according to research and clinical Dermatologist Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.
Many cosmeceuticals are difficult to study in this arena because the effects of topical OTC products are less dramatic than the expectations of a drug. Therefore, many of the active agents in cosmeceuticals need to be studied for efficacy.
Scientists have proven that certain agents do assist in slowing and correcting the aging process. With my line, DERMASpa RX, I have created products with high concentrations of the following scientifically proven ingredients.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)- “The Skin Miracle” AHAs cleanse, exfoliate, improve texture and smooth your skin. Suggested product AHA Facial Cleanser
Antioxidants- (Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Alpha Lipoic Acid, Idebenone) Free radicals are a major contributor to skin aging. Topical Antioxidants have been shown to inhibit the destructive properties of free radicals in the skin.Suggested Product Antioxidant Facial Cream
MDI Complex- The marine enzyme MDI complex works as a 100% water soluble preservative system. It keeps skin cells bonded to one another contibuting to skin’s firmness and elasticity. Hydrating B Serum
Glucosmine HCL/ Algae-This ingredient improves collagen synthesis and helps retain skin moisture. Suggested Product: Efface
Peptides (e.g. KTTKS)-Peptides help reduce wrinkles and renew the skin’s outer layer by regenerating damaged skin. They also stimulate collagen production and improve skin thickness. Suggested Products DNA Repair Gel, Moisturizing Repair Cream, Antioxidant Repair Cream, Eye Repair Cream, Neck Firming Serum
Niacinamide-Studies have shown this ingredient’s ability to strengthen skin barrier integrity and dramatically increase hydration for plumper, smoother skin. Suggested Product Moisturizing Repair Cream
Beta-Glucan– This ingredient increases skin resistance to UV radiation and protects against water loss. Suggested Product Neck Firming Serum
Tretinoin (Retin-A, Renova or Avita) (by prescription) and Tazarotene (Tazorac) (by prescription), These products help prevent and repair the early signs of aging. Specifically they can reduce fine wrinkles and skin roughness, and stimulate collagen for healthier, younger looking skin.
Retinol-Although its name is similar, retinol is different than tretinoin. It is more accessible because it is available without a prescription and it rarely irritates your skin as much as tretinoin. Suggested product Retin-Aid
Furfuryladenine- This ingredient, also referred to as Kinetin, is a natural plant-growth factor that slows the aging process in plants. Leaves that have been cut will not turn brown if they are dipped in Furfuryladenine.
Hyaluronic Acid-(HA) This is a super moisturizing, jelly like substance that is abundant in youthful skin. HA fills the gaps between collagen and elastin fibers and helps transport essential nutrients to the live cells of the skin. Suggested Products Eye Repair Cream, DNA Repair Gel, Hydrating B Serum.
CoEnzyme Q10– (also known as ubiquinone) is a fat soluble vitamin that we produce in our bodies to protect against free radical damage.
Ursolic Acid- This specialized ingredient is found in very few skin care products and has the unique ability to re-program aging cells to produce lipids essential for moisturizing the skin. Suggested Product Moisturizing Repair Cream
Photolyase- helps restore normal cellular function that is damaged by Ultraviolet Light. Suggested product DNA Repair Gel
Over the years, patients have continually asked me “what products will work for my skin?”
Dermatologists and Surgeons should be well aware of the variables their patients consider when recommending a skin care regimen. Primarily, the patient’s skin type and lifestyle. Are they outdoors for the majority of their day? Is their skin dry or oily? Are there conditions such as acne, rosacea or eczema to consider?
In my practice, I recommend the DERMAspaRx products based on these lifestyle and skin type factors. My hands-on research has led me to the active ingredients that I put into my products. They are formulated with effective ingredients, with the right pH and combination for varying skin types.
Our patients are also given an opportunity to see the Before and After images of their skin when undergoing treatments or product regimens. We do this with the technology of VISIA imaging equipment which assesses and measures pigmentation, pores, wrinkles, evenness, porphyrins, UV spots and photo-damage in a patient’s skin.
The example below is one of our patient testimonials and her results. She had no in office treatments or procedures, and used only the following DERMAspaRx products:
October 07, 2011 (DAY 1) February 21, 2012 (DAY 123)
“I can’t believe the difference in my skin over the past 4 months. I have less sun spots, less fine lines around my eyes and much brighter skin! My skin tone has also improved dramatically, especially around my eyes and mouth. I have been using the AHA facial cleanser, the DNA Repair Gel, the Eye Repair Cream, the Anti-Oxidant Facial Cream and the Oil Free Sun Protection System. I can’t live without these products now! Looking forward to my next “after” photo”
– Melissa, age 34, Denver
There is obvious visible improvement in fine lines, discolorations, skin tone and texture. As referenced above, skin improvement with cosmeceuticals does not happen overnight. It is dedication to a regular skin care regimen of products based on proven ingredients, patient skin type and lifestyle that will make a difference over time.
To your skin health,
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